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About Tremont's Location - History of Walker Valley

This text is from the Tremont lesson manual, Connecting People and Nature: A Teacher's Guide.

U.S. and the World | Pioneer Era | Lumbering Era | National Park Era | Walker Valley Stories | Resources

U.S. and the World (1915-1925)
In 1915 the first telephone conversation, from New York to San Francisco, was accomplished by Alexander Graham Bell and Thomas Watson. The United States entered the Great War (now called World War I) in 1917. The war ended in November, 1918. Also in 1918 an influenza epidemic killed an estimated twenty million people worldwide, including 548,000 in the U.S. The first transatlantic flight was made by a U.S. Navy Seaplane in 1919. The trip, which began in New York, was made in nineteen days. Two constitutional amendments were ratified during this time period. In 1919 the 18th Amendment legalized Prohibition. The 19th Amendment, in 1920, gave women the right to vote. The first sound-on-film motion picture was shown in 1923. Notable inventions during this period included stainless steel (1916) and the automatic toaster (1918). Automobiles began to appear in the East Tennessee area regularly in the early 1920s.

Pioneer Era
William Marion Walker married Nancy Caylor in 1859 and moved to the Middle Prong of the Little River, where they became the first settlers in this area. The valley soon became known as Walker Valley. They had seven children, three of whom died as infants and one of whom died as a young child. It has been said that Will, known as Big Will to most, and Nancy read their Bible regularly. Will noted that God had blessed and granted prosperity to David and other men of olden times who chose to have more than one wife. Therefore, in about 1864, Big Will brought into the home a second wife, Mary Ann Moore, sister of Loon Grant Moore (Big Will’s son-in-law).

Nancy is said to have cared for Mary Ann and her seven children, all of whom grew to adulthood. It is likely that Nancy learned from Big Will’s mother, Aunt Polly, to be midwife for her valley just as Aunt Polly had been for Tuckaleechee. Later Big Will built a cabin for Mary Ann and her children on the west side of the river, near the bridge into Tremont. Later, with no more children in his home, he took a third wife, Mary (called Moll, which was short for Molly) Stinnett. She was the sister of Preacher John Stinnett, Big Will’s son-in-law, who was married to his daughter Jane. Moll and Will had twelve children, only one of whom died in infancy. He built a cabin for her and her children downriver near the location of Tremont’s sewage lagoon. This brought the total of Will’s children to twenty-six by three wives. Since only the children of Nancy could legally bear the name of Walker, the children of each of the other two wives bore their mothers’ names. There are many descendants by the common-law wives who come back to the valley and cemetery once a year, the first Sunday in June, for Decoration Day and homecoming.

Big Will was a man of many talents and was well-liked. In a newspaper article, a reporter wrote that when Big Will was seventy-nine and still very active, he could “jump up and clap his heels together twice before he landed.” It was said that during the Civil War, when many of his neighbors from Cades Cove were off fighting, Will traveled from house to house and cut firewood for people who had no one at home to do it for them. He was also a good hunter and sharpshooter, made watertight oak buckets, and was a master beekeeper. At one time he had over a hundred “bee gums” (hives made from hollowed out black gum logs) in his yard and more on Thunderhead Prong. He traded the valuable honey in Tuckaleechee (now Townsend). He also built three grist mills on his property used for grinding corn meal.

Lumbering Era
After World War I, logging companies came into the area, and although Walker Valley was the most accessible valley, Will would not sell. He vowed that he would never sell to the loggers, but did allow splash logging from property upriver which adjoined his. In splash logging, several dams would be constructed along the river. When logs were ready to be moved, the dams were closed. When the water level behind the dam furthest upstream was high enough, that dam was opened. As the rushing water and logs approached the next dam, it too was opened. As more dams were opened, the water level continued to rise, allowing more logs to be carried. By the time the last dam was opened, there was enough water to carry the logs to the mill in Townsend.

In 1918 Will was disabled by a stroke, and Colonel W. B. Townsend of the Little River Lumber Company came to offer to buy the land Will had claimed on the Thunderhead Prong. It is said that Will agreed to the sale but asked that it not be cut. The lumber company bought that ninety-six-acre parcel for $1500, and it was not cut until shortly after Colonel Townsend’s death in 1936. Will had had his land surveyed, and in all claimed eight square miles, or 5120 acres of land.

Big Will was eighty years old when he died in 1919. His body was carried across the footlog and down the river to the present-day Townsend “Wye”, and from there was carried by a train, provided by Colonel Townsend, to be buried at Bethel Baptist Church in Townsend. Four of his daughters by Moll Stinnett, Dora, Sally, Millie, and Lillie, cared for him during his final illness, and it was to them that he left his valley. They said Big Will wished to be buried in his valley.

Nancy lived two years longer in their cabin, cared for by the four Stinnett sisters. When she died she was buried beside Big Will at Bethel, leaving this valley for the first time since she came here.

After Big Will’s death, the Little River Lumber Company completed their deal with the heirs of the valley, which they had been unable to accomplish with Big Will. He loved his valley and did not wish to see the land spoiled as it had been at Elkmont (towards Gatlinburg) and other nearby valleys.

As one hikes the trails in the valley, it may be difficult to imagine it as an area without trees. But if you had been here many years ago, that’s what you would have seen: just a few small trees, little wildlife, and muddy streams with eroded banks. The Little River Lumber Company logged the areas around the Middle Prong of the Little River (the river that flows through Tremont) from 1926-1938. The Tremont road follows the route of the logging railroad that once hauled logs from this valley to Townsend. Three miles upriver from the Institute was the logging town of Tremont, named for the trees and the mountains. The town had a general store, a post office, a school, movie house, church, and a hotel. People in the town lived in portable “carshacks” that could be picked up and moved on railroad flatcars as the logging operations moved. During the time that the logging company was in operation, there were about one thousand people living between Walker Valley and the logging town.

Logs were removed from the high country using a device called a skidder. There were two types of skidders. Ground skidders were V-shaped troughs that were raised a few feet off the ground. When logs were ready to be sent down to the tracks, they were put into the skidder. A rope or cable was tied to one end of the log(s), and the other end of the rope was attached to mules or oxen. These animals would then pull the logs from the mountains down to the tracks. The logs were then loaded onto flatcars and taken to the mill in Townsend. Overhead skidders consisted of a crane-like machine which moved on rails, and metal cables. After the cables were attached to a large tree or stump as far as one mile away from the tracks, logs could be “reeled” back to the skidder using pulleys and a large “J” hook.

In this part of the park, many spurline sections of railroad branched out far into the mountains and hollows to provide access to the timber. In areas like these, a specialized engine known as a Shay engine was used to haul the logs back down into the valley. Unlike conventional engines, a Shay engine was able to travel the steep grades and sharp turns that were common in the mountains.

When the Great Smoky Mountains National Park was established, the Little River Lumber Company sold its holdings to the park. Although the Little River Lumber Company land was the first land purchased for the national park, it was the last accepted for such use because of continued cutting. After a long legal battle and years of negotiation, the Middle Prong and its tributaries were finally included in the boundaries of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Many relics remain to remind us that the logging company was here. If you have a sharp eye, while hiking some trails here at Tremont you may see skidder cables, pieces of railroad tracks, train parts, foundations of buildings, old railroad beds, or manways (trails used by loggers to get from one place to another). This area has only had since 1938 to recover, but if you look around, today’s forest is a testimony to the power of nature to reclaim its own if given the opportunity to do so. The establishment of the park gave the forest that chance.

National Park Era
The history of Great Smoky Mountains National Park is one of the many aspects that make it unique. This was the first park ever to come from private land owned by citizens. In the late 1920s the area that is now the park was being logged at a rapid pace. A couple from Knoxville named Davis had been out west visiting Yellowstone, and began to wonder why there was not a national park in the East. They in turn generated interest among people from Tennessee and North Carolina in turning this area into a national park. In 1926 Congress passed an act that provided for the establishment of Great Smoky Mountains National Park and Shenandoah National Park.

It would not be an easy task to convince the people of the mountains to sell their homes and farms, nor to obtain the money to buy the land. The first money came from a group of school children. A total of five million dollars was raised by the people of North Carolina and Tennessee, and most of the land was bought with this money. The Rockefeller family gave the next five million dollars, pledged to match that raised by the states, and in 1934 the land was deeded to the federal government. In 1936 Congress voted to make this a national park, and finally, in 1940, the park was dedicated by F. D. Roosevelt as the twenty-second national park in the United States. Because a highway over the mountains ran through the proposed park, the enabling legislation for the park included a clause that no tolls could be charged for using the road. This is still true today, and the Smokies are one of the few parks that does not charge admission.

By 1938, all developments of Little River Lumber Company had been moved out of the valley. The National Park Service, having purchased 77,000 acres from Little River Lumber Company, destroyed all the buildings except for the area which had been given by Colonel Townsend to be used by the Girl Scouts as Camp Margaret Townsend (now Tremont).

In 1933-1934 the government built a Civilian Conservation Corps camp about four miles above the location of the former Tremont Lumber Village site which was named the Tremont CCC Camp, the second location to use the name Tremont. This camp was in operation for about eight years. The boys located there built and maintained trails in this area of the park and helped establish and maintain picnic areas, campgrounds, and trails in other parts of the park. When the camp was closed, the government again dismantled all buildings. The foundations, however, can still be seen.

A small primitive campground, built on the site of a former residence, was also given the name Tremont by the park.

In 1964 the government built a Job Corps Center at the location of the former Girl Scout camp. It was named Tremont Job Corps, and became the fourth location to use the name Tremont. It was in operation four and a half years. An average of one hundred and twelve young men were stationed at the center doing trail work, improving roads, trails, picnic areas, and campgrounds at Tremont and throughout the park. They also received valuable training, including basic education, shop work, and specific skills. Upon evaluation of the many Job Corps Centers in the United States, it was decided that the expenditure per corpsman was too high at Tremont. Since there was insufficient room for expansion, the facility closed in June 1969.

Representatives of Maryville College, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Blount County Chamber of Commerce, and the public school systems of this area petitioned government authorities that the facilities of this center be used as a center for environmental education, to be administered by Maryville College. This was the first proposal for the use of any of the fifty-nine abandoned Job Corps centers, and initiated the idea of using all the centers for “socially useful” purposes.

Tremont Environmental Education Center was opened the third week in October, 1969, with almost a record number of students and teachers from Chattanooga. During the first year of operation more than four thousand students, teachers, and parents from systems from Chattanooga to Johnson City spent a week at the Center. Weekend and summer use of the Center included college students, church groups, garden clubs, and experimental groups of special education children. The center was closed in September 1979 for remodeling and Maryville College was unable to reopen the center. In May 1980, the Great Smoky Mountains Natural History Association became the administrative agency of the center.

Stories from Walker Valley

The children of Loon Grant Moore and Margaret Shields
There were many tragedies in the valley through the years, especially in the rough pioneer days when travel was slow and difficult and doctors could not reach such a remote area. Many babies died in infancy, and other children died quite young. Little Susie Moore was the daughter of Loon Grant Moore and Margaret Shields, his second wife. One cold January day when she was less than five years old, Susie started across the footlog over the Middle Prong to her Uncle Will’s. The river was high and the footlog was icy. Susie fell in and drowned.

Loon and Margaret suffered another tragedy. Their daughters Annie and Margaret were walking down the trail together when they were shot by Annie’s husband, Henry Walker, Big Will’s nephew. He was later declared insane and spent the rest of his days in a mental institution where he was a cook. Margaret was not killed, but Annie was. Some say they were divorced before this happened.

One of the most touching stories, which sheds light on the care of children in the valley, was told by Emma, youngest daughter of Loon and Margaret, who was born blind. She cried and begged to go to school like the other children, but the teacher at Walker Valley had not been trained to teach blind children. He told Loon and Big Will about the school for the blind in Nashville, and arrangements were made for Emma to go. There they were able to correct her vision. She later returned to Maryville, where she got off the train and heard a woman say, “I’m supposed to have a little girl on this train.” Recognizing her mother’s voice, she ran to her saying “I’m Emma. I’m your little girl.” She also told how her father Loon and her Uncle Will had carried her on their shoulders through the woods, teaching her many things about the trees, flowers, and animals. She described Nancy Caylor as the “best woman God ever made. She was good to everybody. She took care of everybody.”

Ol’ Berry Learns How to Jay
Two nephews of Big Will had been given permission to cut some logs on Lumber (Timber) Ridge. They called themselves the Fist and Skull Lumber Company. They used a mule to start the logs down one of their “skids.” When the logs got a good start, the boys would yell “Jay!” The mule would step aside and let the logs continue down the “skid” to the river. Mules can be the most stubborn creatures in the world, and this mule was no exception. He decided one day that he would not work anymore. Nothing they could do would make him go.

They remembered that their Uncle Will had a big ox named Ol’ Berry. He was named that because Will said he was the color of a ripe blackberry. They went down to borrow Ol’ Berry to finish getting their logs down to the river. Big Will said, “You boys know that Ol’ Berry is a valuable animal. I was offered $100 for him recently and you also know he has never worked in timber. If anything happens to him, you boys will owe me $100.”

With that admonition ringing in their ears, the boys took Ol’ Berry up the ridge, hitched him to his first load of logs, and started him down the skid. When they yelled “Jay,” Ol’ Berry did not understand and kept going on down the skid. The boys followed, discussing what they expected to find at the foot of the ridge and how their profits from the logs, already down, would have to go to pay their Uncle Will for replacement of poor Ol’ Berry. Imagine their surprise when they reached the bottom of the skid and saw Ol’ Berry sitting astride the largest log, unharmed. Rejoicing, they led Ol’ Berry back to the top of the ridge to finish their job of bringing down the logs. Thereafter, each time Ol’ Berry heard the boys yell “Jay!,” he stepped aside; he had learned his lesson well.

Big Will the Hunter
It has been said that Big Will was a great hunter and such an expert marksman that he was often excluded from shooting matches unless he would use someone else’s gun. His gun was six feet long and called “Sudden Death” or “Ol’ Death.” Big Will was very proud and very careful of his gun and used it for many years. In fact, he said that he had killed more than one hundred bears with it. One of his favorite bear stories is about the time one of the biggest bears he had ever seen eluded a group of hunters and escaped into a cave. The leader of the group offered $25 to the hunter who would go into the cave after him and bring him out. Big Will volunteered. He went into the cave with his gun loaded and ready to shoot, and moved cautiously forward until he felt the hot, moist air of the bear’s breath. Will fired in that direction and killed the bear with one shot. He refused the $25, for the bearskin alone was worth more than that.

The Feud and Vannie Cook
The people of Walker Valley were hunters and trappers who made part of their living from trading pelts of wild animals. As good hunters, they had excellent hunting dogs. Around 1910, a group of settlers over the ridge in the “Spicewoods,” near the West Prong, brought in some sheep to raise. As could be expected, the hunting dogs got into the sheep and killed several. Immediately, the dogs were shot. In seeking reprisal for the loss of their dogs, someone set fire to the ridge between West Prong and Walker Valley. Sometimes the wind changes suddenly on these ridges, and that is probably what happened that beautiful April day in 1910. All the men and boys of the valley were on the ridge fighting the fire, which seemed out of control and was threatening the valley.

Among the fire fighters was a man named Sam Cook, a great woodsman, who had a creek named for him (Sam’s Creek, up Middle Prong) and also a gap on the Appalachian Trail (Sam’s Gap, between Newfound Gap and Fontana Dam.) His son, Dock, and his little daughters, Vannie and Eva, were helping their father. Dock was helping establish a fire line, while Vannie and Eva were watching the fire line to see that the fire did not jump over it. Dock saw that the top of the tree under which the girls were sitting was on fire and about to fall. He yelled to his sisters, who ran in opposite directions. The top of the tree fell on little Vannie, mortally wounding her. The story is told that when they brought her to a nearby cabin, a white dove appeared and stayed until Vannie died, when it disappeared to be seen no more. They said that the dove had come to “guide her home.”

Recommended cultural history resources (available at Tremont):


Great Smoky Mountains Institute at Tremont
9275 Tremont Road - Townsend, TN 37882
(865)448-6709
site updated July 22, 2008